Wheel and Tires suggestions

[AirborneRanger]

Tach this is for you, but I welcome all responses on this.

Since my accident, I just found out that I totalled all 4 AFS wheels and tires that I had on there. I really think those wheels looked nice but were way to damn heavy. Do you guys have any suggestions on another different set that I can replace them with? Pics, websites and info is always appreciated.
As for costs, Id like to pay no more than a grand for the wheels. (thats the beauty of ebay :hehe: )
~Mills

[codymach]

Tach this is for you, but I welcome all responses on this.

Since my accident, I just found out that I totalled all 4 AFS wheels and tires that I had on there. I really think those wheels looked nice but were way to damn heavy. Do you guys have any suggestions on another different set that I can replace them with? Pics, websites and info is always appreciated.
As for costs, Id like to pay no more than a grand for the wheels. (thats the beauty of ebay :hehe: )
~Mills

Tach9 was a BIG help when I got my wheels and tires. I ended up with the Bullitt Anthracites. I like the Bullitt wheels VERY much on Mustangs and I only paid about $525 delivered from ebay....they were new 18x9's. I went with 265'sx40x18's. They have provided great traction....so far they are excellent tires.

[tach9]

Tach this is for you, but I welcome all responses on this.

Since my accident, I just found out that I totalled all 4 AFS wheels and tires that I had on there. I really think those wheels looked nice but were way to damn heavy. Do you guys have any suggestions on another different set that I can replace them with? Pics, websites and info is always appreciated.
As for costs, Id like to pay no more than a grand for the wheels. (thats the beauty of ebay :hehe: )
~Mills

Hey Mills...Welll..ya know where I'm already heading with this one :hehe: I like wheels that are light..less unsprung weigh..the less HP you have to use to get moving..also handling is better and transitions are much more precise and crisp...all due to less unsprung weight...So here's my take:

When looking for light wheels in 17" or 18" (either for DR or Cornering), we are really limited unless you want a 3 piece design, and then you'll spend upwards of $3k just for wheels..and those are the really cheap 3 piece wheels...man what's up with that??? Y'all know the trials I went through with wheels..and so I finally got fed up and basically took a design and made my own...those are the M1R Halibrands....They come in several sizes now..Front 17 x8, 17 x 9 and rear 17 x 9.5 and 17 x 11....the 17 x 9.5's weigh 15lbs...you're not going to find a two piece wheel that weigh as little as these anywhere...let alone for the price :D I aint Spamming here...just telling the facts...Several ORG/Registry members have bought the wheels..and I think they really like em' :D

For the street...I like Toyo T1-S tires...killer tires...less expensive than say BFG KD & KDW..but they out perform them in every catagory...dry adhesion and wet adhesion...Toyo's are killer..just ask those that have taken my advice on these tires and I believe they'll repeat what I am saying about them..they are simply killer!!!

Now for me..I run the Toyo RA-1's..these are their D.O.T. Competition Road Race tires...and they are fantastic!!! Just ask the Black Sheep Canyon Carvers...they'll tell ya just how good these tire are...and as a added bonus, ya know Nitto is Toyo's sister company...ya know those Nitto Drag Radials...yup same rubber compound as the RA-1's...the difference is the RA-1's have stiffer sidewalls to handle cornering where the Nittos have soft sidewalls for acceleration flexing....With the RA-1's you can effectively have a Drag Radial that corners...Ask 351 c.i.d...he just ran a 13.1 ET :shft . on em' :D and they were only 235-45-17 sized :spinem:

The mod that makes the biggest improvement is educating the nut behind the wheel, but IMHO..the second most effective mod is tires and wheels...biggest improvement you'll get for the bucks

Let me know if I can point ya in the right direction on tires...etc...man I love tires :spinem:

[1WICKEDmach]

steeda Ultralight wheels in 18s would look good. I think they only weigh 22 lbs in 17s they have a wheel and tire package going $1,399. I personally am going to go with the 18x10 deep dish bullets for my mach, I dont care about weight i am going for looks. I think 4:10 or 4:30 gears should help compensate for the weight.

[tach9]

steeda Ultralight wheels in 18s would look good. I think they only weigh 22 lbs in 17s they have a wheel and tire package going $1,399. I personally am going to go with the 18x10 deep dish bullets for my mach, I dont care about weight i am going for looks. I think 4:10 or 4:30 gears should help compensate for the weight.

Hey Chris, it still takes HP to move the car....doesn't matter what gears you have..the car still needs to over come the unsprung weight.... :spinem:

[1WICKEDmach]

I know, your right as usual. But This way i wont notice the power loss. When i put on the 275 drag radials i noticed a power loss due to the weight and the taller tire reducing the rear gear. I wont be buying the rims anytime soon. Im going to be spending my money on brakes. I am getting some baer rotors to go with the hawk pads.

I got my H&R springs in thanks, the car handles awsum. I wish i would have got the toyo tires like you recomended insead the nitto dragradias. The side wall flexes to much.

[tach9]

I know, your right as usual. But This way i wont notice the power loss. When i put on the 275 drag radials i noticed a power loss due to the weight and the taller tire reducing the rear gear. I wont be buying the rims anytime soon. Im going to be spending my money on brakes. I am getting some baer rotors to go with the hawk pads.

I got my H&R springs in thanks, the car handles awsum. I wish i would have got the toyo tires like you recomended insead the nitto dragradias. The side wall flexes to much.

Hey Chris...there is always the next time :D Hey may I offer a suggestion IMHO on the Baer Rotors???

Don't unless you are getting them for aesthetic reasons...they are not going to help you stop any better!! They are the same size as the stock rotors, although they are cross drilled...which BTW..does nothing except lighten it a few grams..but it does make a really kewl sound..and that's why I make my rotors cross drilled...but anyways, stick to the stock rotors..cheaper and they perform OK..they just warp a bit..but you already know that from the "loop"....

Now I do have 6 piston aluminum calipers, 13.25" rotors mounted on aluminum hats...that will improve your braking..comes with steel braided lines and Hawk Pads.. .... :hehe:

[1WICKEDmach]

I was going to get the fronts, because mine are warped and the rear baer kit upgrades to a 13 inch rear rotor. I have a fear of smoking my brakes again after that one day. My brakes barely work now. I think i neet to change my fluid and get some braided lines. Whenever i hit my brakes hard, my brakelight comes on.

[n2o408coupe]

I was going to get the fronts, because mine are warped and the rear baer kit upgrades to a 13 inch rear rotor. I have a fear of smoking my brakes again after that one day. My brakes barely work now. I think i neet to change my fluid and get some braided lines. Whenever i hit my brakes hard, my brakelight comes on.
how heavy are the FR500's clones, I would love to have a set of those in black 18x9's!!!

[AirborneRanger]

I know, your right as usual. But This way i wont notice the power loss. When i put on the 275 drag radials i noticed a power loss due to the weight and the taller tire reducing the rear gear. I wont be buying the rims anytime soon. Im going to be spending my money on brakes. I am getting some baer rotors to go with the hawk pads.

I got my H&R springs in thanks, the car handles awsum. I wish i would have got the toyo tires like you recomended insead the nitto dragradias. The side wall flexes to much.


Oh believe me bud, you do notice. Those AFS wheels ran about 30+pds a wheel and it does show up on your ET slip. Granted, I live in high altitude, but I really believe w/ the mods I had, I should be runing alot better than 13.8...I blame it on the wheels :hehe: Also, already have 4.10 gears.

[AirborneRanger]

Hey Mills...Welll..ya know where I'm already heading with this one :hehe: I like wheels that are light..less unsprung weigh..the less HP you have to use to get moving..also handling is better and transitions are much more precise and crisp...all due to less unsprung weight...So here's my take:

When looking for light wheels in 17" or 18" (either for DR or Cornering), we are really limited unless you want a 3 piece design, and then you'll spend upwards of $3k just for wheels..and those are the really cheap 3 piece wheels...man what's up with that??? Y'all know the trials I went through with wheels..and so I finally got fed up and basically took a design and made my own...those are the M1R Halibrands....They come in several sizes now..Front 17 x8, 17 x 9 and rear 17 x 9.5 and 17 x 11....the 17 x 9.5's weigh 15lbs...you're not going to find a two piece wheel that weigh as little as these anywhere...let alone for the price :D I aint Spamming here...just telling the facts...Several ORG/Registry members have bought the wheels..and I think they really like em' :D

For the street...I like Toyo T1-S tires...killer tires...less expensive than say BFG KD & KDW..but they out perform them in every catagory...dry adhesion and wet adhesion...Toyo's are killer..just ask those that have taken my advice on these tires and I believe they'll repeat what I am saying about them..they are simply killer!!!

Now for me..I run the Toyo RA-1's..these are their D.O.T. Competition Road Race tires...and they are fantastic!!! Just ask the Black Sheep Canyon Carvers...they'll tell ya just how good these tire are...and as a added bonus, ya know Nitto is Toyo's sister company...ya know those Nitto Drag Radials...yup same rubber compound as the RA-1's...the difference is the RA-1's have stiffer sidewalls to handle cornering where the Nittos have soft sidewalls for acceleration flexing....With the RA-1's you can effectively have a Drag Radial that corners...Ask 351 c.i.d...he just ran a 13.1 ET :shft . on em' :D and they were only 235-45-17 sized :spinem:

The mod that makes the biggest improvement is educating the nut behind the wheel, but IMHO..the second most effective mod is tires and wheels...biggest improvement you'll get for the bucks

Let me know if I can point ya in the right direction on tires...etc...man I love tires :spinem:


Thanks tach,
Do you have any pics? Where can I find these wheels and at what approx cost too?

[tach9]

Thanks tach,
Do you have any pics? Where can I find these wheels and at what approx cost too?


Hey Mills...sure...

http://mach1review.com/products_wheels_halibrand.html

Let me know if ya want a set and I'll give ya the ORG special pricing :D

[tach9]

how heavy are the FR500's clones, I would love to have a set of those in black 18x9's!!!

FR500's are way heavy...28lbs..IIRC

[Ralph Greene]

Buy the lightest wheels you can afford. 18" "can" offer some handling benefits (smooth pavement only) with their short sidewalls, but will get banged up easier also from road debris and potholes etc.

Also for the front, would suggest you stick as close as possible to near stock wheel offsets (30MM+). Keeping the wheel centers (and forces) as near stock as possible helps to not have a lot of "pulling" and wandering problems which while can usually be fixed with CC plates, still can be a pain.

[AirborneRanger]

I was doing some research on 18's and no one makes a slick for that tire (who would want to), so now Im definitely planing on going w/ a 17's all the way around. MT makes a 17"slick and the whole problem before was...trying to buy a whole different set of tires and wheels just for the 1/4. Kinda pricey just to get lower 60's. So Ill definitely look at the 17s and keep as near stock up front as possible.

[wildwill]

I just got new Ford Bullitt wheels in black for my Mach. Tire Rack showed them weighing 22lbs, they were correct. Our oem wheels weigh 26lbs, so you can save a little with these. They also have the correct offset. I did notice the lug nuts are a little long ( they stick out ),I will fix that when I get them mounted. Tire Rack shows the wheel weight when you click on the wheel plus you can see them on your car.

[tach9]

I just got new Ford Bullitt wheels in black for my Mach. Tire Rack showed them weighing 22lbs, they were correct. Our oem wheels weigh 26lbs, so you can save a little with these. They also have the correct offset. I did notice the lug nuts are a little long ( they stick out ),I will fix that when I get them mounted. Tire Rack shows the wheel weight when you click on the wheel plus you can see them on your car.

wild...I really like the Bullit wheels..very nice..should look good on your Mach!! I have been considering aset myself for track wheels...As for the lug nuts, the stock Bullit wheel lugs are shorter than our Mach lugs...IIRC..you need 3/4" long Acorn wheel lugs...